
How to eat sushi... that's what this document is all about. Its target audience are
non-Japanese people who
enjoy sushi but aren't familiar with the customs and traditions that
make for an outstanding dining experience. If you enjoy sushi, or if
you
think you'd like to give sushi a try, this document is for you.
Many sushi eating
subcultures have
developed outside of Japan, particularly in the United
States. Sushi etiquette is not complicated, but it's rich in
traditions that you may want to become aware of. This
document was prepared with input from the author's Japanese
friends
and acquaintances. When a custom is discussed this HOWTO
chooses
the "Japanese way" of doing things over "the local way".
Note:
Most sushi chefs (itamae
) are male because of traditions dating back to the time of the samurai.
This document assumes adherence to this tradition and uses male
pronouns to refer to the sushi chef and his actions.
This HTML file is
usually served from http://www.eugeneciurana.com/musings/sushi-eating-HOWTO.html

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Table of Contents
Choosing a
Sushi Restaurant
Many people I met told me
that they don't
like sushi; upon pressing the matter, I learned that the
place where they ate it was far less from ideal. It's sad to
think
that many people cannot enjoy sushi because of a bad first
experience. The usual culprit for this is a combination of
lack
of
tradition in the place where they ate and poorly prepared
fish.
All fish swim in the ocean, but not all fish are suitable for sushi
because how the fish is handled, from the water to the sushi bar,
greatly influences its quality.
- Eat only at the
best place you can
find. Many sushi bars are a bit expensive, but quality
usually
sucks, so price is no indicator of quality. Ask Japanese
people
where they go to eat sushi and go there.
- Stick to one or
two good places
once you find them. Regulars get better sushi and better
overall
service than casual patrons.
- The best sushi
places I've been to
in San Francisco, Mexico City, Zürich, Manhattan, Beverly
Hills,
Waikiki, Guadalajara, Paris, Moscow, Boston, Columbus OH (yes, you read
that correctly), London, Amsterdam, Dallas TX, Milano, Toronto and
Chicago have one thing in common: They have a very small
sushi
bar, i.e. they seat fewer than 12 people at the bar.
- A good Japanese
restaurant is most
often not a good sushi place. A good
sushi place is usually
a good Japanese restaurant.
- Count the
number of Japanese
sitting at the sushi bar. The more Japanese people eating
there,
usually the better the sushi. Remember: Japanese
people are
manic about quality.
- Most often than
not, avoid the
restaurants with little boats of sushi parading along a large sushi
bar. It's a great gimmick, but remember that those
restaurants
are
to sushi what McDonald's is to prime rib.
- The only chain
of sushi
restaurants
in the world worth visiting (in fact, I encourage you to) belongs to Nobuyuki
Matsuhisa. Nobu is arguably the best sushi chef in
the world,
and has opened a chain of small but high-quality (and pricey)
restaurants in major cities in the US and in Europe.
Warning
signs
that you probably won't get good sushi
- The fish and
other seafood are not
on display at the sushi bar
- The fish and
other seafood on
display look dry
- The sushi chef
or (worse) a food
server wants to take your order for all sushi items at once
- The sushi chef
doesn't give you a
chance to order "one or two pieces at a time", Japanese style
- The restaurant
advertises "all you
can eat sushi" for a fixed price
- The menu items
are not listed in
Japanese followed by a translation; they appear only in your native
language
- The menu
consists mostly of rolled
sushi with names like California Roll or Oriental Delight
- More than half
of the available
ingredients are cooked
- The sushi chef
hasn't the vaguest
idea of what you're talking about if you ask for kazunoko, shiso,
inago,
chirashi, or yama gobo
- The morsels of
fish atop nigiri
pieces are so large that you can barely see the rice underneath
(believe
it or not, some people think that the sushi place is good because you
get big pieces of fish). Big pieces of fish are good as long
as
the fish quality is good.
- The sushi rice
is flavorless;
sushi rice must have a delicate aroma and flavor
- The restaurant
is part of a chain
or franchise
If four or more of the
conditions above
are met, leave the place immediately and head to a different restaurant.
How to
order your food and drinks
Eating sushi is not about
filling yourself
with raw fish. Eating sushi is an experience--some say a
ritual--that involves all your senses. Serious
sushi can only be
eaten at the bar because that's the only place where you'll see the
colors, inhale the aromas, share the laughter, and taste the food
fully
immersed in the environment. Plan on a one and a half to two
hour
meal.
- Eat at the
sushi bar.
- Greet the other
people at the bar
and start conversation with them; sushi is about community.
- If you cannot
eat at the bar, walk
to it and check the quality of the fish before ordering.
- Greet the itamae
(sushi
chef) even if you don't eat at the bar. He'll
recommend
special
stuff if he recognizes you as a regular and/or someone who truly knows
how to eat sushi.
- Remember that
itamae are not just
"cooks". They have traditions dating back to the time of the samurai.
These same guys fed the meanest leanest macho hombre warriors of
Japan. Be respectful and you shall enjoy the best sushi.
- Order all sushi
items from the
itamae, everything else from
the
food servers.
- Order sashimi
(selection
of fresh fish slices) first; ask the sushi chef for his choice of
fish. He knows what's fresh today better than you.
"Please
prepare what you think is freshest," is the best way to
order.
Let
him be creative.
- Order one kind
of sushi at a time,
maximum three if the bar is busy. That could be nigiri, maki
or
temaki. Big plates are for the table only.
- If you are a
regular, let the
itamae decide what you're having and at what pace it is served.
- Don't rush
through your
meal.
Eat at McDonald's if you want to eat fast.
- If
you're at the bar and in a bit
of a hurry (i.e. have a half hour to eat or so), order a chirashi,
a small lacquered box with a bed of sushi rice, a bit of sugar, some
pickled veggies and a chef's selection of fish and mollusks.
This
way you'll get all your sushi at once in a single serving and then
leave. Eat it with chopsticks.
- Pickled
vegetables, sprouts, and
some things like ankimo (monkfish liver) are OK to order from the sushi
chef if you see them advertised at the bar.
- Don't be afraid
to ask for things
not listed in the menu. Chances are the chef has them under
the
counter for those people (like you) who truly know what they're
doing. Kazunoko, inago, hebo and idtakko fall in this
category.
- If the bar is
busy and you feel
like you can't wait, order some edamame (boiled
soy beans), suimono(clear
broth) or misoshiru (fermented soy bean soup) to
keep you busy
until the sushi chef can take care of you.
- Eat sushi with
moderation.
More than 10 kinds of fish, crab, and clams is too much because your
palate numbs.
- Drink green
tea, beer, or sake
with
your sushi. Soft drinks spoil the taste and white wine is for
snobs. Remember there are more than 300 kinds of sake, so at
least
one will be better than the cheap Chardonnay they offer by the glass.
- If you're
drinking sake, keep in
mind that not all sake is heated for consumption. Nigori
(unfiltered) sake
looks like milk; drink it cold. For hot sake, ask for Sho
Chiku
Bai. Ask the itamae for more exotic drinks like gold
sake -- with
real gold flakes in it!
- If the sushi is
excellent and
you're having a good time, offer to buy a drink for the itamae and his
assistants. You will discover that most Japanese itamae drink
Budweiser (as observed in San Francisco, Beverly Hills, Chicago, New
York, and Moscow). Don't offer to buy drinks during lunch;
this
is
an evening tradition.
- Don't be
surprised if your itamae
pours you a glass of the special reserve sake he keeps under the bar if
he realizes that you know your sushi and how to order it.
Thank
him, raise your glass and toast by saying "kampai!".
- Tips:
The itamae and rest of the staff are tipped separately unless you pay
the bill with a credit card. The bulk of the tip must go to
the
itamae.
Types of sushi
- Sashimi:
Raw
seafood
served chilled and sliced, and elegantly arranged.
It's
usually
prepared with fish fresh from the water, refrigerated but never
frozen. How to slice the fish for sashimi is one of the most
rigorous skills to learn during the itamae's training. Fish
cut
too thick or too thin make a different impression on the taste buds,
and
different fish require applying different techniques. Depending
on what was served, you will be handed soy sauce, ponzu, or red pepper
to
dress it.
- Nigirisushi:
Nigiri
means something like "hand pressed". This type of sushi is
the
most common type at the sushi bar: A small oval made with
rice,
with an expertly cut slice of fish on top, and with a dab of wasabi on
it. Most types of nigirisushi are meant to be dipped in soy
sauce,
and must be eaten in one bite, slowly. Close your eyes and
feel
the different textures in your mouth while you eat every piece.
- Makisushi:
Maki means
"rolled". This kind of sushi consists of fish (or crab) and
vegetables rolled in a sheet of nori (roasted
seaweed) and
rice. Makisushi is usually served sliced into bite-size
portions. In some restaurants it will be listed as norimaki
(seaweed roll) in the menu. Makisushi is an excellent choice
for
those venturing into the sushi bar for the first time, particularly if
they are squimish about eating raw fish. The taste and
crackling
texture of the the seaweed, the visual delight from its appearance, and
the combination of salty seaweed, sweet rice, and delicate fish and
vegetables soon win even the most reluctant experimenters.
- Temaki:
Te = hand.
Temaki describes the hand rolls, something like a Japanese nori taco,
that you bite into. Many of the ingredients you'll find in
makisushi also exist in temaki.
- Kansai-style
sushi is not
covered here because it's not very common in western
countries.
The HOWTO will cover it in the future (and the photos are ready for the
HOWTO Companion). Its history and tradition requires a whole
chapter contrasting it with Edo-sushi, the one you're most likely
familiar with.
The details
of enjoying sushi
Mechanics
-
The
waitress will bring you an oshibori(hot
towel) as soon as you seat down. Wipe your hands with it
before
touching the food; some restaurants leave the towel throughout the meal
for you to wipe your hands; others take it away before your sashimi
arrives. Either way you'll get a napkin for your lap.
- Your wooden
chopsticks will come
joined at one end; separate them and feel them lengthwise.
Rub
them together only if you feel
splinters. Never rub high
quality, smooth chopsticks; you will insult the restaurant if you do.
- You may eat
sushi with your hands
or with chopsticks, whatever is more comfortable
- Use chopsticks
to grab morsels
from
a shared plate, holding the end that you put in your mouth with your
fingers so that only the opposite end touches the food. You
may
use your fingers after depositing the sushi piece on your plate; turn
your chopsticks around to grab it if you're using them.
- Some sushi bars
have a small canal
with thin springs of running water between you and the itamae; use
these
to rinse your fingers.
- Never ask for a
spoon to eat your
soup; simply grab the bowl with one hand and dig the bits of tofu,
seaweed, or mushrooms with your chopsticks as you bring it to your
lips. It's perfectly polite to slurp, specially if the soup
is
hot. Ignore the gaijin (non-Japanese
guys) glaring at you
from the other side of the bar; chances are they haven't read this
HOWTO
nor been to Japan.
- If the
spiciness in your sushi is
not enough, lace some with soy sauce for dipping your sushi; this is
done by dabbing a tiny bit of wasabi
(the
bright green dough on your plate) onto a small saucer provided to you
next to your bigger plate. Add some soy sauce for
dipping.
Blend it with your chopsticks. The right ratio of wasabi to
soy
sauce is up to you. Wasabi is very strong, stronger than hot
mustard, so be careful with the amounts. The Japanese way is to
use
soy sauce without adding wasabi to it and dabbing the wasabi onto the
sushi morsel itself. Your call.
- Never dip the
sushi rice in soy
sauce; turn your piece so that only the fish or whatever you have on it
touches the sauce.
- Never dip in
soy sauce something
that already has a sauce or decoration on it, like unagi
(fresh
water eel served with some Teriyaki sauce and sprinkled with sesame
seeds). If it looks elaborate or like it has some sauce on
it,
ask
the itamae whether you should dip it.
- Always dip your
sashimi or nigiri
if they don't appear to have anything on them.
-
Your
plate will have some pickled
ginger on it. Eat a little bit of it in between
sushi pieces
to
clean your palate. Eating gobs of it is bad form.
- Ask for some oshinko
(various
pickled roots like radish) if you don't like pickled ginger.
Meal order
- Sashimi first
- Cooked stuff
like unagi (grilled
fresh water eel), tamago (omelette), and/or
California rolls*
- Fresh fish and
molluscs (nigiri or
maki)
- Exotic stuff
because it tends to
have a stronger flavor
- Spicy anything
like hand rolls
(temaki) should be last
- Exception
Fugu (poisonous
blowfish) should be your only course if you eat it - explanation in the
section living dangerously
- Soup, edamame,
and oshinko may be
ordered and enjoyed at any time during the course of your meal
*People who know how to eat
sushi don't
order California rolls. They're for wimps who can't handle
raw
fish. Rule of thumb: if it has mayonnaise or tomatoes, or if
it's
cooked and lacks an exotic name like ankimo, it's probably not real
sushi.
Please click
here to skip to What to order.
Living
dangerously: Fugu
Fugu sashimi is so special
that is often
eaten as a main course.
Fugu is a blowfish
from Japan. In
the United States, I found only one or two restaurants in New York City
that serve it. All other states prohibit (as far as I know)
its
consumption. This blowfish is so poisonous that minimal
amounts
of
venom are enough to kill a large, healthy adult, in less than a half
hour. Its effects are similar to those of curare, a nerve
poison
used by the natives in the Amazonas. If fugu isn't prepared
correctly, chances are good that you'll die of respiratory and cardiac
failure.
Here are some tips
on how to best enjoy
fugu:
- Always call the
restaurant in
advance and make a reservation; a skilled itamae who knows how to
prepare fugu is hard to find, and may come to the restaurant just to
prepare the fugu for you.
- Beware of a
restaurant that will
prepare fugu for you without a reservation unless you're a regular
patron.
- Plan on eating
fugu sashimi and
little else for that meal; don't worry, fugu sashimi is rather
abundant,
usually enough for two people.
- Never eat
fugu if you're
sitting at a table. Order it only if sitting at the sushi bar
where you can watch its preparation. Watching the preparation
is
part of the fun.
- The itamae will
hand you a large
plate with very thin slices of fish arranged like flower petals, and a
small mound of fugu skin will be piled in the centre. It will
be
decorated with chopped scallions and spicy radish (not
wasabi). A
small halved sudachi (Japanese lime) will be
somewhere on the
plate or handed to you separately.
- When adding the
Japanese lime, add
only a few drops. This isn't ceviche.
- Eat fugu
s-l-o-w-l-y with your
chopsticks. Enjoy its delicate flavor. Your lips
and
tongue
should tingle, like after a sensuous kiss, making every bite taste
better than the previous one. Drink smooth sake every two or
three
bites to cleanse your palate.
- Can you feel
your tongue? No? Stop
eating immediately and call the ambulance.
- Alternate
between eating the flesh
and the skin.
- Never dip fugu
in soy sauce.
If the sushi chef recommends a sauce, it will be a very mild ponzu
sauce (sudachi and soy sauce dilluted with a bit of sweet sake and rice
vinegar) and he will give it to you without asking.
- Take your time
after eating fugu
before ordering anything else. It's better if you just let it
settle. Skip dessert.
- Tip the itamae
generously.
You will notice that he is much older (and presumably experienced) than
other sushi chefs you might have run into. In fact, avoid
eating
fugu from a itamae who looks younger than forty. Experience
is a
friend of caution in this case.
What is
wasabi?
People think that wasabi is a
form of
horseradish or Japanese mustard. It is neither, though it is
distantly related to the mustard green plant.
Wasabi (wasabia
japonica) is a
plant that grows almost exclusively in Asia. It became a
sushi
dressing in the mid-1800's when the sushi preparers noticed that people
who took small amounts of wasabi did not get sick. It turns
out
that one of wasabi's best properties is killing parasites in the
fish. Its delicate aroma and sweet undertones enhance the
flavor
of the fish with which it's eaten.
Studies in the
United States and Japan
confirm that wasabi inhibits microbes, prevents or aids treatment of
blood clotting, asthma, and it's helpful with some forms of cancer (J.
A. Depree, T.M. Howard & G.P. Savage, Food Research
International Vol 31, No5, pp.329-337, 1999). At least one
study
indicates that it may also help prevent tooth decay (Hideki Masuda,
Ph.D. 2000).
Good Japanese
restaurants offer fresh
wasabi; the best buy
the plant and grind it in the premises. Most
restaurants outside of Japan will give you horseradish with food
colouring. Once
you try the real thing, however, you will be able to discriminate its
delicate flavor and benefit from its many properties.
For information on
where to get real
wasabi in the US, contact
Pacific Farms (this HOWTO is not affiliated
with Pacific
Farms in any way).
Kinome
and
sansho: beyond wasabi
If
you want to try
something beyond wasabi, kinome and sansho are for you.
Kinome
is the leaf of the prickly ash. This plant is
native to
eastern North America and has prickly twigs and folliage similar to the
unrelated ash tree. Itamaes use the young leaves as a
decoration
and edible condiment. They taste like a combination of mint,
basil, and a hint of anise. It goes well with any nigiri and
replaces wasabi as a condiment. Eat only a tiny leaf at a
time or
its flavor will overwhelm everything else.
Sansho
are the peppercorns of the kinome plant. Bite half of one
before
eating delicate morsels of sushi (i.e. hamachi, tai, suzuki, waloo,
etc.) and wait a couple of minutes before you put the fish in your
mouth. The sansho peppercorn (or berry as some itamaes call
it)
will explode in flavor, almost numbing your tastebuds, but then it'll
create a tingling sensation on your tongue and palate. Eat
the
sushi when the tingling starts. The best wasabi taste won't
come
close to how delicious sushi with sansho is.
Sansho
and kinome have
similar medicinal properties to wasabi. It's used as an
antibacterial and for anti-candidiasis. It's known to reduce
swelling and it's thought to aid in dealing with colds and coughs.
Why the rice
tastes so good
The white rice used for
making sushi is
cooked differently than the rice you eat with other Japanese
food.
Sushi rice is made with:
- Short-grained
rice
- Water
- Rice vinegar
(different kinds
produce different colors)
- Sugar
- Salt
- Konbu,
a form of kelp
specifically used for sushi rice
- Some itamae add
a bit of sake
Good sushi rice must have a
delicate,
sweet flavor that complements fish and clams without overpowering them.
What
to
order
Nigirisushi
| shake |
fresh salmon |
Some
restaurants use smoked
salmon; others have it both fresh and smoked. Eat it fresh if
available. |

|
| toro |
fatty tuna |
Delicious but
expensive; expect
to pay up from $10 per piece |
|
| maguro |
tuna |
|

|
| kampachi |
Japanese
yellow tail |
|
|
waloo
|
Hawaiian
angel fish
|
Incredible,
melt-in-your-mouth texture and a complex flavour. A good one
to
try if you're new to sushi
|

|
| suzuki |
Japanese sea
bass |
|

|
| tai |
red
snapper/pargo/huachinango |
|

|
| saba |
mackerel |
|
|
| binjo |
fatty albacore |
|

|
| ebi |
cooked shrimp |
|
|
| masago |
capelin caviar |
|
|
| tobiko |
flying fish
caviar |
Masago and
tobiko are bright
orange and delicious; tobiko eggs are a bit larger than masago, each
about the size of a pinhead |

|
| ikura |
salmon caviar |
|
|
| aji |
Spanish
mackerel |
|
|
| katsuo |
bonito |
A special
kind of migrating
tuna; delicious and a bit expensive, and available in very few places
only through the summer |

|
| hamachi |
yellow tail |
|
 |
| kohada |
--- |
A silvery
small fish, like a
sardine; very tasty |
|
| hirame |
halibut |
Don't eat
hirame from the San
Francisco Bay. Rumour has it that you get your yearly dosage
of
mercury out of a couple of nigiri pieces |
|
| unagi |
fresh water
eel |
One of the
most delicious fish
you ever tasted; served grilled, with a bit of Teriyaki sauce and
sprinkled with sesame seeds |
|
| anago |
sea water eel |
Similar to
unagi; eat it only if
there is no unagi |
|
| takko |
octopus |
|

|
| ika |
squid or
cuttlefish |
|
|
| mirugai |
long neck
white clam |
|
|
| akagai |
red clam |
|
|
| awabi |
abalone |
Hard to find
and expensive; if
possible, eat it in sashimi instead of nigiri |
|
| hotate |
scallop |
Eat it only
if it's fresh; ask
the itamae |

|
| kani |
crab |
|
|
| ka-kani |
hairy crab |
Exotic and
expensive; hard to
find outside of Japan |
|
| tamago |
hen egg
omelette |
Eat only if
made in premises;
you'll give your sushi chef a chance to show off |
|
| amaebi no tama |
raw fresh shrimp (alive just a few seconds ago) and its caviar |
Seldom found; the roe is raw, unlike ikura or tobiko which may have had some preparation |
 |
Makisushi
All ingredients are listed
from the inside
out.
| futomaki |
pink fish
powder, egg, gourd,
vegetables, rice and nori |
|
|
| tekkamaki |
tuna, rice,
nori |
Originally
invented as a snack
consummed at gambling parlours (tekka); think of it as a Japanese
distant cousin of the sandwich |
|
| kappamaki |
fresh
cucumber, rice, nori |
Named after
Kappa, a water
goblin in the Japanese mythology. Kappa is very fond of
cucumbers. |
|
| oshinkomaki |
pickled
yellow radish, rice, nori |
|
|
| unakyu |
unagi, rice,
nori |
|
|
| umekyu |
cucumber,
plum paste, rice, nori |
Eat it as the
last entree
because of the pungent taste of the plum paste |
|
walmartdotcomaki
|
maguro,
shake, suppo (white tuna), hamachi wrapped in fresh turnip
|
Simple,
delicious maki found in the last place on Earth where you'd expect to
find amazing sushi
|

|
dynamite
roll
|
maguro
(tuna), spices, rice, nori
|
|

|
Special
roll
|
unagi,
mango, avocado, rice, goma (sesame seeds), shake/maguro/hamachi,
tobiko, two kinds of chef-made mayonnaise, a few bacon bits on the
plate; shoyu and mayonnaisse make the splash pattern on the plage
|
Nobody
knows for sure what goes into this one; found at a sushi bar in San
Bruno, CA. One of the most delicious rolls ever.
Careful if
you find it, though: it's a meal in itself; don't plan on
eating
anything else during that outing
|

|
| California
roll |
crab+mayonnaise,
avocado
(sometimes), nori, rice, sesame seeds, tobiko |
It's OK if
there are no other
choices from this list.
|
|
| Rainbow
roll |
all kinds of
ingredients; each
itamae has his own recipe |
|
|
Caterpillar
or Dragon roll
|
similar to
rainbow roll but with
the ingredients on the outside |
Rainbow and
caterpillar rolls
usually involve avocado. Avocados (not tomatoes!) became part
of
the sushi tradition because they meet the sushi criteria: they have a
delicate flavor, they are exotic and expensive. Remember that
most noveau sushi now comes from California; avocados are used on both
sides of the Pacific |

|
| Spider roll |
soft shell
crab, rice, nori |
|

|
| Spicy spider roll |
soft shell crab, organic multi-grain rice, nori, pink soy paper as wrapper, and a fried river crab as decoration |
This is a specialty from Juni in San Francisco - haven't found anywhere else |
 |
| Tempura roll |
shrimp
tempura, rice, nori |
Order only if
soft shell crab
isn't available |
|
Temaki
- Dynamaki,
dynamite roll, spicy
roll : Maguro or hamachi mixed with either a hot
spicy sauce
or with hot ground chilli peppers. If possible, try hamachi
instead of maguro.
- Salmon
skin roll: The
name says it all. Eat it while it's still hot.
Eat temaki promptly after
it's served to
you. The nori may absorb some of the moisture from the rice,
loosing
its crunchy texture.
Other
things you may find at the sushi bar
Mozuko
|
Seaweed,
a bit of vinegar, and a raw quail egg
|
Appetizer;
normally offered by the itamae
|

|
Sunomono
|
Scallop,
crab, octopus, cucumber, a bit of vinegar, and sesame seeds for
decoration
|
Appetizer;
normally offered by the itamae
|

|
Kobe
gyutataki
|
Kobe
beef, the most delicate of all beefs in the world, lightly seared and
nice and red in the center of each morsel
|
Expensive
and usually available in the autumn or winter
|

|
Shishamo
|
Grilled
capelin; eat it whole, starting from the head; normally full of
delicious caviar
|
Summer
fish of the north Pacific and Atlantic, related to the smelt
|

|
Tekka
donburi
|
Slices
of red tuna (maguro) serverd in a bowl of sushi rice.
|
A
snack common at tekka gambling places.
|

|
| Sawagani |
Fried river crab |
Itamaes
tend to keep them alive at the restaurant and cook them when you
order. Eat them alone on a bed of seaweed or in a spider roll. |
 |
Vegetarian
sushi
Vegetables have always been
an important
component of sushi, and many traditional varieties are mostly or
completely vegetarian. There is no excuse for vegetarians or
vegans to not join you at the sushi bar. From kappa maki
(cucumber roll) to sophisticated nigiri ensembles, itamaes always
figure out a way of creating some interesting and delicious vegetarian
sushi. If you're a vegan, join your fish-eating friends and
just
let the itamae know about what you like. Most itamaes will go
out
of their way to create custom
vegetarian sushi to suit your taste and needs.
Becoming a
master: beyond nigiri and maki sushi
There is one more level to
the sushi
experience. This is where you find the most exotic sushi, the
one
that separates you from the rest. You can really tell others
that
you know how to eat sushi after you've experienced the delicacies in
this section. Beware that most of these are also on the
pricey
column of the menu.
-
Uni:
sea urchin caviar
(roe). It's considered one of the most delicate pleasures at
the
sushi bar. Uni is a dark yellow mass served on nigiri, with a
strong nutty flavor coming from the iodine found in the sea
urchin. Always eat it fresh; the grossest thing you can eat
is
old
or previously frozen uni.
- Fugu:
Poisonous
Japanese blowfish. It's the most delicate and sensual of all
sushi
plates. Your lips and tongue literally tingle while you eat
it--and for at least a half hour afterward. The fugu
experience
is
like a long-lasting sensuous kiss.
- Hebo:
Bee
larvae. Roasted in honey, hebo will be served in a very small
porcelain container. Pick one or two at a time, eating them
in
between other types of sushi. Their flavor explodes in your
mouth, blending the hebo with the honey and flowers flavor.
- Amaebi:
Fresh water
shrimp. Raw fresh water shrimp nigiri. The
head (and
sometimes the shell) of the shrimp are fried and served
separately. Squeeze some lemon juice on them and
eat them.
- Odori:
Dancing
langoustine. Raw live baby langoustines. There is
nothing
quite like watching your food move its antennas as you eat it.
- Inago:
Roasted
grasshoppers. Served as nigiri. The taste like
shrimp with
a
bit of lemon.
- Kazunoko:
Herring
caviar. Consummed as a traditional New Year's
sushi. Also
known as "yellow diamonds" because of its texture and exorbitant price
in Japan. If you live anywhere from the Bay Area to Mexico
City,
however, kazunoko is very reasonably priced: The best
kazunoko
comes from the waters around San Francisco.
- Idtakko:
Baby
octopus. Served atop on nigiri, with each octopus (head and
tentacles) fitting comfortably on top of the rice.
- Ankimo:
Monkfish
liver. Think foie gras and you'll get the idea.
- Hamachi
kama:
Yellowtail shoulder. This consists of the area right behind
the
fish's head, served grilled on a plate along with some shredded daikon
radish and a bit of garlic. Squeeze a few lemon drops over
the
fish, then carefully separate the meat from the skin and the single
bone. Pour some soy sauce (not too much) over the
daikon.
Garnish each bite of fish with daikon. You will enjoy the
most
delicate grilled fish you've ever eaten.
Tai
kabutoyaki:
Red napper grilled head, a delicacy from Western Japan.
Exactly
what its name describes: a
grilled red snapper head, server on a plate along with some shredded
daikon and lemon. See the hamachi kama preparation.
Eat all
the meat around the head, and pay special attention to the
eye:
it's delicious! To eat the eye: remove the round
white
thing. Dig the eye out of the socket; it'll have the
consistency
of jelly. Add a couple of drops of lemon juice and pop it in
your
mouth... amazing!
Bonus
recipe: Yujimaki (aka Amigo Maki)
Yujimaki
is
a
temaki
developed over a period of seven years between the author and Yoshi The
Man in San Francisco. It's a spicy roll on
steroids. How spicy you want it is really up to you; we came
up
with a loose scale ranging from 0 to 10, where 0 = very mild and 10 =
as
spicy as possible. If you like spicy food, this is for you.
Ingredients:
- Hamachi or
kampachi (don't use
maguro if you can help it)
- Sriracha
HOT chili sauce (http://www.huyfong.com/), possibly the
tastiest
spicy sauce in the world
- Tobiko
- Kaiware
(radish sprouts)
- Yama
gobo, a pickled root
that looks like a long and pencil-thin carrot
- Sushi rice
- Roasted nori
Preparation:
- Mix hamachi,
hot sauce and tobiko
in a small bowl.
- Estimate how
much sauce in an
imaginary scale from 0 to 10, where 0 = one drop of sauce, 10 = so
spicy
that the white hamachi flesh turns bright red. Let it rest
for
2-5
minutes.
- Toast a sheet
of nori in a toaster
or electric oven for one to two minutes so it's crispy.
- Apply a layer
of sushi rice to one
side of the nori sheet.
- Scoop the spicy
hamachi onto the
nori sheet on top of the rice.
- Add a stick of
yama gobo and a
small bunch of kaiware.
- Roll the nori
and eat immediately.
Make sure that all the
ingredients are
fresh, and that you use Sriracha spicy sauce. It's not as
tasty
when made with other sauces.
About
alt.food.sushi
This USENET group is
frequented by many
people who really know their stuff. Stop by if you have
questions. Don't be intimidated by a few posters who take
themselves too seriously (like me) and who like to posture and lecture;
that aside, it's probably the best resource of sushi information on the
'net.
Ongoing
USENET threads about this HOWTO
You
may read the responses regarding this document
through Google groups. I chose to ignore a lot of
the
"advise"
regarding the first version of this document because it had a lot of
subjective opinions on certain topics (i.e. tipping) that were based
more on a person's preference or habit than on any tradition or
knowledge.
Odds and ends
This section covers a couple
of points
that caused quite a stir when discussed in the USENET.
Why tip
the
itamae and the waiters separately?
In some Japanese restaurants
the food
servers must share their tips with the sushi bar. In some
others
the policy is more draconian: All the tips from people eating
at
the sushi bar go to the itamae regardless of whether the food consumed
came from the sushi bar or from the kitchen. Tipping the
itamae
and waiters separately, specially if you are a regular, guarantees that
you'll get excellent service from both camps. It doesn't
leave
doubts on anyone's mind as to how much of the tip was meant for whom.
If you don't like
this advise, or
getting involved in your restaurant's politics, leave the tip whichever
way you feel the
most
comfortable. It's your money, after all.
How much
wasabi?
Put as much as you like,
directly on the
fish or mixed with soy sauce.
Acknowledgements
and Copyright
This document wouldn't have
been possible
without the patience and training from all my friends who enjoy eating
and preparing sushi. Special thanks to:
- Luis
Dumois for taking me on my first sushi outing in
1988
- Michael Zogg
for showing me the
only place with good sushi in Zürich
- Greg Gilliss, Kolya Colt
and Bob
Lippman for sharing their sushi moments with me.
- Yoshi and
José
- Yuki (Takara
Restaurant, SF)
- Katsu
(excellent scallops!
Matsuhisa Restaurant, Beverly Hills)
- James (Arai
Restaurant, Greenwich
Village)
- Kato (great
fugu; Chikubu
Restaurant, 12 E. 44th Street at Madison Ave., Manhattan)
- Sizuko
(Japanese court at the
Slavyanka Radisson Hotel, Moscow)
- blogdex.com
and foodsiteoftheday.com
for
featuring this HOWTO for their readers.
- Technorati tag
= sushi!
This web page and photos
© copyright
2002, 2003,
2004, 2005, 2006
by Eugene Ciurana. All rights reserved. Feel free
to
reproduce it in whole or in part as long as the copyright notice and a
link to it or its URL are provided.